If you’re heading to Phnom Penh, here’s the inside track on the available transportation option:

• Bus: National Route 6 has been upgraded in recent years and no longer resembles a motocross track. It’s now smooth tarmac virtually all the way. Several bus companies ply this route, with prices ranging from $5 to $12, the journey taking around 6 hours, usually stopping for a rest creak in Kompong Thom. Check with individual companies for times, though there are generally morning buses leaving between 6:30-9am and lunchtime buses around 12:30-2pm.
• Boat: Once the most popular choice of transport, there are better alternatives now available, given major improvements to the roads. At $25 it’s relatively expensive and the view can quickly become monotonous. If you do choose the boat, be sure to wear plenty of sunscreen if you sit on the roof, and take a pair of earplugs to drown out the noise of the engine. Boats leave from the Siem Reap ferry port around 7am and journey time jetty-to-jetty is around 6 hours.
• Taxi: Although fuel prices have risen sharply in the last couple of years, a taxi can still be a good choice, with journey times around 5 hours. You should be able to get a car to yourself for around $60 and you have the luxury of leaving when you want to, and stopping en route as and when you choose. Ask your hotel or guesthouse to arrange this service for you.
• Plane: The quickest but most expensive option, the flight to Phnom Penh takes around an hour. At the time of writing the only airline flying the route is Siem Reap Airways, with prices around $90 plus $6 departure tax. And remember you’ll need a taxi into Phnom Penh city from the airport, costing $7.
• Train: Contrary to some beliefs, there is no railway service between Siem Reap and Phnom Penh. If you want to experience Cambodian rail travel, first go to Battambang (by bus, taxi or boat) and catch the train to Phnom Penh. Just keep in mind that on the rare days when it runs on time, it still takes around 15 hours.